Your 20s are a strange decade for skin. You are finishing college, starting a job, figuring out dating — and somewhere in the middle of all that, trying to work out what your face actually needs. The advice pulls in opposite directions: acne-busting cleansers and toners on one side, retinol and anti-aging ingredients on the other. It is confusing, and that is exactly why Byrdie writer Hallie Gould sat down with seven dermatologists to sort it out. What follows is their guidance on caring for your skin in your 20s — the products worth using, the ingredients worth looking for, and the treatments worth considering. The piece was medically reviewed by Rachel Nazarian, MD, FAAD, and fact checked by Michelle Regalado.
The short version first. Starting an anti-aging routine in your 20s can help hold on to collagen and elastin as they start to decline. Daily sunscreen is non-negotiable, because UV speeds up skin aging and it is around all year. And do not over-treat: products that are too harsh can leave your skin more sensitive and irritated than it was before.
The seven dermatologists behind the advice are Dr. Dennis Gross, a board-certified dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon; Dr. Elizabeth Hale, a board-certified dermatologist and vice chair of dermatology at NYU Langone Health; Dr. Brooke Jeffy, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of the youth skincare brand BTWN; Dr. Jeannette Graf, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York and founder of OMNI Aesthetics in Great Neck, New York; Dr. Rebecca Kazin, of the Washington Institute of Dermatologic Laser Surgery and the Johns Hopkins Department of Dermatology; Dr. Craig Austin, a big believer in glycolic acid; and Dr. Annie Chiu, a board-certified cosmetic and general dermatologist.
1. Tackle Anti-Aging Early
Dr. Gross is blunt about the timing: the time to get serious about anti-aging is your 20s, not after the signs show up. The reason is structural. Research shows that as early as age 25, the skin’s two structural proteins begin to decrease — collagen, which keeps skin firm, taut and resilient, and elastin, which gives skin its flexibility and lets it stretch out and snap back into place. The whole point of a routine in your 20s is prevention: protecting what you have now rather than trying to win it back later.
2. Apply SPF
Sunscreen does more than prevent skin cancer. Dr. Hale calls SPF the single-best anti-aging ingredient available to us, and her reasoning is simple: UV is present all the time. It is there on a cloudy day, when you are sitting inside near a window, and while you are driving. It bounces off concrete, sand, water and snow, and reflected UV is just as damaging as direct exposure. As she puts it, sunlight is the biggest outside cause of skin aging, and people should care about this level of sun exposure. The tricky part is that incidental exposure is cumulative — it adds up over time, in every season, whether you notice it or not. That is why the key to any healthy skin regimen is a daily SPF product, used year-round. Find a formula you enjoy using, and make it a daily habit.
3. Follow a Simple Skincare Routine
Dr. Jeffy keeps it simple. Proper routines vary from person to person, but she shared a five-step routine that works for most people in their twenties — and the goal is not to overdo it, it is to be consistent and use high-quality ingredients.
Step 1: Cleanse. Cleanse morning and night, with a product that suits your skin type. At night, double cleanse, so all makeup and sunscreen are properly removed and the skin is ready for any targeted treatments while you sleep. Dr. Jeffy likes Bioderma Sensibio Micellar Water for normal to oily skin, and the CeraVe Makeup Removing Cleanser Balm if your skin runs dry.
Step 2: Exfoliate. Exfoliate mindfully and carefully, with the goal of removing dead skin cells without destroying the skin barrier. Choose a gentle chemical exfoliant, like Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant, or Eight Saints Soulmate Brightening Treatment & AHA Exfoliator.
Step 3: Treat your concern. If your skin is dry, focus on hydration — products like La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Hyaluronic Acid Serum, or give Corsx Snail Mucin a try. If pigmentation worries you, look for brightening products with ingredients like vitamin C, tranexamic acid and kojic acid. And for wrinkle prevention, the mid-to-late 20s is the earliest Dr. Jeffy would consider using a retinol — or bakuchiol, if your skin is more sensitive.
Step 4: Moisturize. If you tend to be dry, reach for lotions and creams like Vanicream Daily Facial Lotion. If you tend to be acne-prone or oily, try a lightweight gel moisturizer like Face Reality Hydrabalance.
Step 5: Use SPF. This is the most important step of all, Dr. Jeffy says, to keep skin free of brown spots and wrinkles — and to prevent skin cancer, by the way. Her take: with so many SPF formulas on the shelves, not liking any of them is no excuse at all.
4. Exfoliate
Dr. Gross puts exfoliation at the centre of daily renewal: exfoliating every day keeps collagen renewal going. Products with salicylic acid, alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids help clear dead skin cells and dirt from the surface, and get beneath the surface to unclog pores. That does three things at once — it helps prevent breakouts, smooths the skin’s texture, and boosts cell renewal.
5. Consider Your Diet
Skincare is not only what you put on your face. Dr. Graf’s advice is refreshingly plain: aim for two or three liters of fresh water with lemon squeezed in, every day; eat plenty of fresh greens and fiber, and take vitamin D3 daily. Then add the rest of the picture: get plenty of exercise, sleep and fresh air, and keep your diet as alkaline as you can, for the best overall health.
6. Cleansing Is Critical
Still using the same routine you had in college or high school? Dr. Gross says it is time to rethink it. Many people in their 20s keep using the same harsh cleansers and drying astringents they relied on when they were oily and acne-prone teenagers — and the effects may not show right away, but those products strip the skin and leave it dry and irritated over time. As we get older, our skin produces less oil, so we need to be more gentle with it. The oil glands shrink, which means we have to be careful not to strip away the skin’s natural oils. Dr. Kazin agrees, and she adds a line worth remembering: even if you suffer from acne, skin shouldn’t be squeaky clean. Too much scrubbing only makes the problem worse, because it causes irritation and leads to more breakouts.
7. Skip the Oil If You Deal With Acne
Plump, hydrated skin looks great, but it is also crucial for skin health. Dr. Gross says a moisturizer built around humectants is essential, because humectants help the skin absorb and retain moisture. Before you reach for a rich cream, though, think about your skin type: if you are acne-prone, skip oil-based moisturizers and go oil-free instead. His ingredient to look for is hyaluronic acid, because it moisturizes through those humectants — they draw moisture from the air into the skin. Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in the body, so it suits skin completely and won’t trigger breakouts, and it also helps plump the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines. If you are acne-prone, switch to an oil-free formula, especially in warmer temperatures.
8. Retinol is Key
Retinol earns its place for two reasons at once: it is a great anti-ager, and it also helps keep acne at bay, which makes skin look younger and healthier. Dr. Austin explains that your skin starts to lose its ability to repair itself in your 20s, so it is important to start early with an anti-aging regimen — and using retinol and glycolic acid conservatively will slow aging down considerably while building a healthy routine. Dr. Kazin echoes that advice: acne products and anti-aging products overlap a lot. Retinoids work on both issues, and so do peels — and peels are great for people who find Retin-A too irritating.
9. Never Sleep With Makeup On
Most of us have fallen asleep with makeup on at some point — it happens — but it should never become a habit. Sleeping in makeup can block pores and trap oil inside, which leads to bacteria buildup and, yes, breakouts. It can also stretch pores out, which nobody wants. Dr. Gross suggests trying a cleanser that includes witch hazel extract, a natural toner with antioxidant and anti-irritant properties, or willow herb extract, which has natural antibacterial properties.
10. Treat Adult Acne
Acne does not stop at high school, and it is important to treat it before it gets worse. During this age, a few random breakouts can still emerge, so don’t over-dry your skin with the usual over-the-counter treatments. Dr. Chiu suggests considering a prescription instead — a prescription option such as Aczone 7.5%, which soothes inflamed acne cysts without drying the skin out.
11. Use Anti-Aging Products
Everyone has a different philosophy when it comes to anti-aging, and you do not need to buy into all of it. Including at least one anti-aging product in your routine is a good way to ease into the process and try out ingredients to see which ones work for you. Dr. Chiu’s starting point is simple: start with vitamin C or another antioxidant. These products help guard against early aging by blocking the oxidative damage caused by sun and pollution.
12. Take it Easy
Keeping skin health a priority is great — but doing too much can cause irritation and damage. Dr. Kazin has noticed an influx of sensitive skin among patients in their 20s, and she traces it to skin overhauls that are simply too harsh. As she puts it, she keeps seeing more rosacea and acne in her early-20s patients: they are usually so focused on prevention that they overcompensate and go overboard with certain products, using things that are too harsh or irritating for their skin — like a retinol that is too strong, or exfoliating too much. If your skin is reacting to a product, her method is to stop using it and change one product at a time. Otherwise, you may have a reaction and, if you are using five new products at once, you will have no idea which one caused it. Give a new product at least four weeks before adding another one into your routine.
FAQ
Should you consider preventative Botox in your 20s? Botox has FDA approval for adults 18 and over, so a preventative treatment is possible if you want to stay ahead of future lines. If you are hesitant about committing to full-fledged Botox, consider baby botox — a smaller amount of the injection spread across the face.
Is it common to have acne in your 20s? If you are still facing acne in your 20s, or just starting to deal with it, don’t sweat it. Hormonal acne is very common in 20-year-olds.
How can I reverse skincare mistakes I may have made in my teens? It is okay if you skimped on sunscreen or slept in your makeup one too many times in your teens. Jumping into proper skincare in your 20s is not too late in most cases.
