Self-tanning is an art — one that can take years to master, no matter how many self-tanning guides you follow. And unfortunately, plenty can go wrong. Even when you were meticulous with your application, you can end up with orange palms, streaks and patchiness once the tan develops. Sometimes the problem is different, though: the tan seemingly does not develop at all — and that is a problem most often experienced on the legs.
As Cocoa Brown founder Marissa Carter puts it, it is really common to find that the legs below the knees are often left paler than the rest of the body after washing off the guide tan.
Why might that be? And how can you fix it? Carter and St. Tropez tanning expert Sophie Evans share their tips for achieving perfectly tanned legs every time.
Key takeaways: Dry brushing your legs before applying self-tanner can improve your skin’s condition and enhance your tanning results. Using a lemon on your lower legs helps the self-tanner develop colour more effectively. And allow 24 hours between hair removal and self-tanning to prevent a spotty appearance from open pores.
Meet the experts: Marissa Carter is the founder and CEO of Cocoa Brown, a multi-award-winning self-tanning brand. Sophie Evans is a St. Tropez Skin Finishing Expert and celebrity self-tanner. The source article was medically reviewed by Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist, and fact checked by Anna Harris.
Use a Lemon
Put all those extra lemons in your kitchen to good use before your next self-tanning day. Before applying fake tan, glide a lemon across your lower legs. As Carter explains, the low pH of the fruit helps the DHA — the active ingredient in fake tan — develop the colour quicker and more effectively. A lemon is also a good way to remove self-tanner, so it will help clear away any tan that is lingering on your skin. Just be sure to rinse and dry before applying new tanner.
Start Dry Brushing
Achieving a good self-tan on the legs starts with a great base. Evans recommends dry brushing before your next self-tanning session. The better the condition of your skin, she says, the better your self-tan will look and last. For the legs, she recommends dry body brushing before showering: body brushing helps remove dry, flaky skin and helps prevent ingrown hairs. Evans adds that it will also help tone the skin by boosting circulation, bringing the blood to the skin’s surface.
Try a Scrub
In addition to dry brushing, you will also want to exfoliate your legs with a scrub, especially if you are dealing with old self-tanner from previous sessions. It is important to note that you should be exfoliating before you self-tan, not after — or else you will remove the colour. As Carter advises, when you take a shower, if you have any old self-tan remaining and are still a little flaky, use a body scrub to remove all the old tan. The legs have less blood supply than the rest of the body, she explains, and the skin is thicker and harder, so the colour does not develop as much on the legs — which is why using a scrub is key.
Exfoliate with a Mitt
As an alternative to a physical scrub, there are exfoliating gloves made for this very reason — to scrub your skin ahead of self-tanning, or to remove leftover tan. Evans says a mitt can also double as a tool to apply self-tanner, making the application easier and more even. She loves her exfoliating mitt, she says, and finds it especially good for her legs: it has a double purpose, letting her remove fake tan and exfoliate as well as apply her tan. She does her legs first with a tanning mitt and then the rest of her body, because then she is applying a lot of product on her legs first.
Try an AHA Exfoliant
Scrubbing is not your only avenue for exfoliation. Alpha-hydroxy acids, like lactic or glycolic, provide a less abrasive alternative to more traditional methods of physical exfoliation. By sloughing off dry, dead skin cells, AHAs prime your legs for a more even, vibrant tan.
Tip: Use an AHA cleanser or lotion leading up to self-tan day, but note that using these products post-tan will progressively fade your self-tan.
Make Sure Skin is Completely Dry
Most experts recommend showering before applying self-tanner, as this is the best way to ensure skin is clean. But, says Evans, you need to wait until your skin is completely dry. Make sure your skin is thoroughly dry before applying self-tanner, she stresses: if your skin is slightly damp, this will dilute the formula and cause the colour to develop patchy and streaky. It is best to dry your body off with a towel first and then allow a further 15 minutes of drying time before you apply any self-tanner.
Tip: Avoid tanning in the bathroom after you have showered, as the residual steam could create a layer of moisture on your skin.
Apply Moisturizer Carefully
We have all heard the tips — do not moisturize your skin or use any oils if you want the best looking tan. However, that might not be entirely true. Some areas, like elbows, around the ankles, and the knees might actually need a bit of hydration for an even glow. As Evans explains, a good self-tan will hydrate the skin, but there are areas we always should moisturize. For the body, always use a non-oil based moisturizer and apply lotion to the knees, the whole of the foot and the back of the heel, the elbows, and the whole of the hand and the back of the wrist. If you have any severe dry skin like eczema, she adds, moisturize that area as well to prevent the tan grabbing and developing too dark on the dry patch.
Note that the moisturizer should only be applied to specific spots rather than the entirety of the legs. If you slather the legs in moisturizer, it will reduce the amount of self-tanner that can be absorbed by the skin and produce a much lighter tan.
Be Patient
Sometimes you need a tan ASAP, but it might be in your best interest to wait at least eight hours after exfoliating before your application, as Evans suggests. If you really want to get technical and get ultimate tanning results, she says, exfoliate a good eight hours prior to self-tan application. Skin that has a neutral pH level will achieve the best self-tan results, she explains. The best time to tan is when your skin is comfortable and neutral and has found its perfect pH level — which showering and cleansing can affect.
Plan Hair Removal Accordingly
If you wax your legs or use a hair removal cream, you will want to schedule it around your self-tan. According to Evans, both wax and hair removal cream can remove self-tanner, so plan any hair removal at least 24 hours in advance of your tanning session to ensure the legs tan properly.
With waxing, she explains, you must wait 24 hours to prevent the self-tan sitting in the pores and looking spotty. Shaving is also a form of exfoliation, but is much milder than waxing. Your hair thickness will determine when you can shave. If you have very fine, thin body hair, Evans says, shaving prior to tanning is fine. Shaving after is okay, but not ideal: while it will not remove your self-tan completely, it can tamper with the results. Evans says this is especially true if you have very strong, dark hair growth — in which case, you may find it helps to shave a few days before you tan. But in general, she says, if you have thick hair, it can affect how the tan develops, so for thick hair it is best to shave the night before, and for finer hair, it is best to shave the morning of tanning.
Double Up on Tanning Your Legs
The skin on the legs tends to be thicker and actually produces less melanin than the rest of the body. That means your legs will not get as dark as the rest of your body. Evans suggests doubling the amount of tanner you apply to your legs as a result. She always applies two coats on her legs, she explains: the first coat goes on and absorbs quickly, and then she applies a second coat as soon as it is dry to the touch. She always does this on her legs because she knows the skin is thicker and produces less melanin, so applying two coats will give a better colour.
Try a Darker Formula
While it is not ideal to require two self-tanners for tanning, if doubling up on self-tanning your legs still does not deliver the desired results, you can use a darker self-tanning formula on your legs than the rest of your body. It is worth noting that tanning with two different formulas at once can be tricky, as it can be difficult to get the blend right — so take care with application.
